I have the Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6 just a little bitty lens fits in a top shirt pocket! But MF. Yes at f/5.6 I have used for Astro MW, something a Sony camera even the A7S or Mod 2 have no problems with. It even as contacts for Metadata info which helps mostly with getting a Lens Correction PS/Lr are the first always. It needs a filter holder like those used on the 12-24mm and 14mm.
Now this lens also has contacts for also AF as well as Metadata, always check for you want to know when you took an image. This lens also has threads up front for a filter a plus sometimes but if you use a ND filter up front you may get that hump in the middle. I have the old E 10-18mm (15mm – 27mm) f/4 OSS that is a APS-C lens but can be used in full frame mode at 12mm to 18mm (18mm if you remove the light shield at the rear) that also has threads for filters up front doing a pano with it with with an ND filter you get that blue upper ump. To solve the hump problem get the Haida Rear Lens ND Filter Kit comes with 4 filters. My experience with the rear filters is no hump for the light is going through the clear lens glass THEN through the filter. I have a kit on most all lenses of mine, I started with the Clear Night filter for astro MW but while on a scouting mission left a Clear Night filter in my 12-24mm and no matter the direction I got the baby blue sky where if using a filter up front you have to use finger thumb rule and yes you can not turn to get different shades of blue.
I have used the V 10mm at Horseshoe Canyon to get a pano view image where others were standing on the edge doing multi layer panos to get the sky and the river below with no rope tied on to tripod or to self to prevent a deadly fall, a 10mm a life saver. Also handy say in a store and you are close to a shelve with something you want capture.
But like anything wider than 16mm not used to get IT ALL in frame but a close story as well the wide story behind exp. MW’s on a driftwood beach you get real close to a driftwood tree with the wide MW star path overhead.
Or if you do MW panos you do in portrait view, but when it is Jun, July and August the top of the arc is directly straight up over head and a 12mm or 14mm will capture it with stars to spare but a 10mm more stars above.
I just looked at Photopills Spot stars and 10mm f/2.8 on a A7SM3 is Accurate 16.39s. 12mm f/2.8 is 13.67s 16mm f/2.8 is 10.28 14mm f/1.8 10.47s so you get a lot more time with a 10mm
the little lens is just great to keep in a teardrop bag with camera and 24-240mm lens and ultra wide 16mm -35mm with the 10mm beside just as a option if needed say for a out the up high hotel room night cityscape.
For indoor architecture best to stick with a 16-35mm for anything less like 12mm things on the far walls are just too far to be a real view!
What is fun is doing a pano selection on a Mod 1 and 2 with an ultra wide in portrait view!